EXCEPTIONAL NECKLACE IN THE EGYPTIAN STYLE WITH FINE GRANULATION AND COLORED STONES

Description:

Munich, Friedrich Schmid-Geiler (born 1889), probably around 1935-1938
L. 48 cm
750/000 yellow gold (stamped and hallmarked FS - Münchener Kindl). Set with 27 rubies approx. 1.3 ct and 24 sapphires 1.2 ct and 4 emeralds approx. 0.40 ct and 8 brilliant-cut diamonds approx. 0.85 ct W-L/SI - stones slightly bumped. Width of the middle part approx. 5.7cm, weight approx. 93.7g
From the collection of the well-known gastrosoph Bernd Heidelbauer, Stuttgart.
Friedrich Schmid studied at the municipal trade school and from 1912-3 at the arts and crafts school in Munich. In 1919 he became a specialist teacher at the municipal vocational school for jewelers, goldsmiths and silversmiths in Munich (Deutsche Goldschmiedezeitung, 38 years, no. 31, Leipzig, July 27, 1935, p. 297). He had his studio in Nymphenburgerstr. 44. In 1920 he adopted his wife's surname as a double name so as not to be confused with a second Munich goldsmith named Schmid, and from the 'Munich Art Exhibition' of that year he exhibited for the first time as 'Friedrich Schmid-Geiler'. Around 1934 he reverted to the original surname 'Schmid', resuming the master's mark FS instead of the FS-G mark used since 1920. In his article 'Die Stadt als Edelschmiede', published in December 1942 in the magazine 'Münchner Mosaik', Schmid emphasizes the role of the Dorfen goldsmith Josef Wilm as the new inventor of the Etruscan granulation technique in the 1920s, but adds that he himself and the Munich goldsmith Rolf Goldschmitt had at the same time, independently of each other, revealed the secret of granulation, probably around 1925. Gold and silver works, including some with granulation, as well as works in stone carving by Friedrich Schmid(-Geiler) are in the Munich City Museum, Dr. Beate Dry von Zezschwitz.
A traditional Egyptian necklace, the so-called collar, served as the inspiration for this masterful goldsmith's work. This wide jewelry usually consisted of flattened gold elements or several strings of pearls. Originally, the jewelry was a gift from the king, with which he honored deserving persons. Throughout Egyptian history, the neck collar became an important utensil in funerary cults.
With the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb by Howard Carter in 1922, a new enthusiasm for Egypt emerged across Europe from the 1920s, which had a strong influence on the fashion of the time.
We thank Dr. Graham Dry Munich for his kind support and valuable advice.